Bikes, bars, and big discoveries: An exchange student in Copenhagen

With his red vintage racing bike, septum piercing, and wide-leg trousers, Landon Hildebrandt could pass for a local in the Copenhagen district of Nørrebro. But when he opens his mouth, it’s English — not Danish — that comes out.

The 20-year-old Canadian arrived in Copenhagen in early February. He grew up in Toronto but now calls Vancouver his hometown, and studies neuroscience at the University of British Columbia. This semester, however, he has swapped the Canadian mountains for Copenhagen’s cycling lanes to spend a semester abroad at University of Copenhagen (UCPH).

Cycling and psychology

University Post meets Landon Hildebrandt on a cold February day, with the sun shining from a cloudless sky and snow scattered across the Skjolds Plads square — not unlike a Canadian winter.

»I’ve lived in Montreal before, where it can get down to minus 20 degrees celsius in winter. But here, it’s a different kind of cold — more windy and damp,« he says.

In fact, the city’s cycling culture was the main reason he chose to go on exchange in Copenhagen. Back home in Vancouver, he insists on cycling everywhere, despite the city’s car-centric infrastructure. So the first thing he did upon arrival was buy a bike through Facebook Marketplace.

The first week, I was quite overwhelmed and scared — maybe even a little pessimistic.

Landon Hildebrandt

Landon Hildebrandt decided to study neuroscience after reading a book in high school about the effects of psychedelics on the brain. The subject captivated him. He had always been interested in science, and excelled at it, so the choice felt natural.

While in Copenhagen, however, he has put the neurons on hold in favour of a broad range of electives: He is following courses in social behaviour in animals, psychological mindfulness, and Danish film history.

His diverse course selection reflects his curiosity. He is interested in a bit of everything and thrives on juggling multiple interests: art, music, basketball, photography, hiking — and, of course, cycling.

Back in Vancouver, Landon Hildebrandt balanced his studies with a job at a wine bar and numerous hobbies and volunteer activities. Now that he’s in Copenhagen, he hopes to do the same.

Anticipation vs. reality

Your expectations and your reality don’t always align. Landon Hildebrandt had a clear vision of what his exchange experience and life in Copenhagen would be like. He admits that he knew little about either the city or the country before setting foot in Denmark, but he had plenty of ideas about what exchange life would be like:

»I imagined that the first week would be hyper-social. I thought we’d be out every night, and I expected Copenhagen to be a busy, vibrant city.«

Contrary to his expectations, he spent his first evenings alone in his apartment in Nørrebro — a challenging start:

»I’ve realised that I struggle with being alone. So I think I’ll try to get better at spending time by myself.«

But despite a slightly rough landing, he now sees things differently:

»My expectations were really high at first. The first week, I was quite overwhelmed and scared — maybe even a little pessimistic. But now I’ve settled in more and started to find friends and cool places in the city.«

Longing and beauty

The boulevards in Vancouver are wide, the city is built for cars, and the buildings are made of glass and concrete. A fast-paced metropolis with a housing market that makes it hard to find a place to live. But the city is also surrounded by breathtaking nature, offering plenty of opportunities to escape into the wild, says Landon Hildebrandt.

»I’m surprised by how much I actually miss being out in nature. In Vancouver, most trees are evergreen, so even in winter, everything is green. And when it’s winter, you can always go skiing or hiking. You just can’t do that here.«

On the plus side, he also highlights that eating out is much cheaper in Vancouver, thanks to a multicultural restaurant scene with flavours from throughout the world.

READ ALSO: More international students to the University of Copenhagen

But what Copenhagen lacks in terms of nature and gastronomic diversity, the city makes up for it with its aesthetics and infrastructure. He was especially blown away by the excellent cycling conditions, which he describes as ten times better than in Canada’s best cycling cities.

»Everything is also much more beautiful here. The old buildings are absolutely amazing. There’s really great design everywhere. And I also think Copenhageners have a really good sense of style.«

Scandinavian reserve vs. the West Coast freeze

It’s well-known among foreigners moving to Denmark that it can be hard to settle in and make Danish friends. Danes are often described as reserved, hesitant to welcome new people into their circles, and reluctant to speak English. The perception is backed up by studies, including The Expat Study from 2020, which found that only 26 per cent of newcomers found it easy to make new friends in Denmark.

Landon Hildebrandt had heard about this too. He has yet to experience it himself, however. In one of his very first classes, he struck up a conversation with a Danish classmate, who invited him to his birthday and bachelor’s celebration at a bar. Since then, his Danish friend has given him recommendations for places to visit and experience in Copenhagen.

READ ALSO: Three international students give their verdict: Copenhagen is a cool — but demanding — study city

He has also been positively surprised by how willing Danes are to speak English.

»When I lived in Montreal, I found that if you don’t speak French, it’s almost impossible to get a job. So I find it really refreshing to come here and see that everyone speaks excellent English and has no problem using it. I don’t feel as if I am being shamed for not knowing Danish.«

At the same time, he is aware that Danish friendships don’t come automatically, and that a big part of the exchange experience is that you quickly end up in a bubble with other international students. Apart from his Danish classmate, most of his new friends are from Canada and the US.

»It has definitely been hard to meet Danes, but I think it’s more about the fact that I haven’t moved in the same social circles as them.«

He refuses to be guided by stereotypes:

»The idea that Danes are hard to reach can be dangerous because it keeps newcomers stuck in the belief that they can’t get close to Danes — and then we might not even try. My experience is that it’s an exaggeration.«

He explains that in Vancouver, there is a similar perception known as the West Coast Freeze — the idea that people on the west coast of  Canada, especially in Vancouver, are reserved.

»But I don’t necessarily think that’s true.«

Landon Hildebrandt is also not the type to stand by and do nothing. He has plans to volunteer for an organisation and would also like to work while he is here.

»Volunteering, or getting a job, automatically opens up other social circles with more locals.«

A lively university

Landon Hildebrandt has noticed several contrasts between his home university and UCPH. He describes UCPH as more vibrant, whereas schoolwork takes up much more space in Canada.

»Everything seems a lot more fun and relaxed here. At my home university, I almost feel like people take it too seriously. Sometimes it feels like a job. I go to campus to study and leave as soon as I’m done.«

Here at UCPH, it feels like there are at least three bars on every campus.

Landon Hildebrandt

Another thing that has surprised him is the number of bars on UCPH campuses.

»At my university, we have one bar and sort of a club. Here at UCPH, it feels like there are at least three bars on every campus. I’m really not used to that.«

He also finds the teaching style more relaxed. At his home university, the daily routine is filled with constant preparation, assignments, and exams.

He appreciates the teaching format, where smaller class sizes make it easier to participate and interact with lecturers.

»The teaching here is much more intimate — especially my science classes are different. In Canada, we’re a hundred people in huge lecture halls, just sitting and listening without participating. Here, we have classes in small groups of twenty to thirty people, and I think that’s really great.«

»It becomes everyday life«

The first few weeks have passed for Landon Hildebrandt, and he already feels much wiser about what studying abroad actually entails.

»I had so many expectations, but honestly, I knew nothing about the place before I came. And I’ve come to realise that, in the end, it slowly becomes everyday life here as well.«

The first hectic weeks have already given him many valuable experiences.

»If I had to give one piece of advice, it would be to say yes to everything and try as much as possible. And don’t be too hard on yourself — especially in the beginning. Things will fall into place over time.«

For Landon Hildebrandt, curiosity has been a great help. He has discovered new places by diving into Google Maps and finding events on Facebook. Already, he has his favourite spots in Copenhagen: Lille Bakery, Mayhem, Refshaleøen, and Christiania.

Before he hops onto his red bike, I ask him if he has been yelled at on the cycle paths yet. He replies that he has been confused by all the hand signals, but apparently, he hasn’t annoyed anyone enough to get a scolding — something he had heard was also part of cycling culture here.

»Maybe,« he says with a laugh, »it’s just because I cycle with music in my earphones.«

Just like a true Copenhagener.